Kannauj: The Perfume Capital of India & Its Forgotten Historical Grandeur | Travel Guide

Old rustic buildings, the bustling streets of Bada Bazaar filled with general stores and sweet shops, and the constant tinkling of rickshaw bells these are the everyday sights and sounds of Kannauj. Here, locals gather at small shops, engaging in discussions about politics, while ancient buildings stand tall, their walls whispering stories of a glorious past. The unmistakable fragrance of ittar (natural perfume) fills the air, defining the very essence of Kannauj and offering visitors a sense of serenity.

Unlike the fast-paced metropolitan cities, Kannauj embraces its old-world charm. The people here take pride in their heritage, preferring their traditional lifestyle over modern influences. Interestingly, Kannauj is one of the few Indian cities with multiple historical spellings once known as Kanyakubja, later Cunnauj, and now Kannauj.

A City Steeped in History

Often referred to as the "Perfume Capital of India," Kannauj holds an imperial past that has shaped its identity. Over centuries, the city was ruled by various dynasties, making it an essential part of Indian history. From the Vedas to the Mahabharata, from the Mauryan and Gupta empires to the Delhi Sultanate, and even as the home of Samyukta, the princess of Prithviraj Chauhan, Kannauj has been a significant landmark.

Situated on the banks of the Ganga River, approximately 130 km northwest of Lucknow, Kannauj is a city that exudes history at every corner. While most think of Agra’s Taj Mahal or Rajasthan’s forts when talking about historical destinations, Kannauj’s legacy predates them. The city is home to remarkable historical monuments such as the Jaichandra Fort, the Kannauj Museum, the Annapurna Temple of Tirwaganj, and the Ajaipal Temple each offering a glimpse into its architectural grandeur.

The Perfume Capital of India

Kannauj might not have retained much of its royal grandeur, but one thing has remained unchanged the sweet, exotic aroma of ittar that has been crafted here for centuries. The city proudly produces over 20 lakh liters of natural perfumes annually, exporting to around 50 countries worldwide.

Referred to as the "Grasse of the East" (after the French perfume town), Kannauj has been crafting ittar for over a thousand years. It is a city where 70% of the population is involved in the perfume trade, with more than 250 perfume industries still using the traditional hydrodistillation method (deg-bhapka process). However, modern alcohol-based perfumes, being cheaper and mass-produced, have gradually replaced pure ittar in the mainstream market. Despite this shift, Kannauj continues to preserve its authentic perfume-making heritage.

The Magic of Mitti Attar: Capturing the Scent of Rain

One of the most unique creations of Kannauj’s perfumers is Mitti Attar, also known as Ittar-e-Khaki a fragrance that captures the nostalgic scent of the first rainfall hitting the dry earth. Distilled from parched clay using ancient techniques, this attar replicates the enchanting aroma of monsoon rains. The idea of bottling the scent of rain may seem like fiction, but Kannauj has mastered the craft, making it a sought-after luxury worldwide.

A City Worth Visiting

While Kannauj is famous for its perfumes, its charm goes beyond fragrance. The city is dotted with serene temples like the 500-year-old Sidheshwar Temple and the Gauri Shankar Temple. Nature lovers can explore the Lakh Bahosi Bird Sanctuary, while those interested in local culture can visit Kalawatti Katte all of which add to Kannauj’s timeless appeal.

Despite its imperial past, Kannauj today remains a forgotten chapter in history. Yet, for those who visit, the fragrance of ittar and the whispers of its ancient streets make it an unforgettable experience.

Kannauj: Once the Capital of India, Now a Lost City in History

If you truly want to experience Kannauj, walk through its historical streets, breathe in the air filled with its signature perfume, and immerse yourself in the legacy of a city that refuses to fade.

Sachin Pandey